Seam for sewed articles



, June 8 ,1926.. 1,588,130 c. w. MUELLER SEAN! FOR SEWED ARTICLES Fi led Jan. 9, 1924 gwmnioz i 74 'lzarZesWMaaZian Patented June 8,1926.

. UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

CHARLES W. MUELLER, OF ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, ASSIGNOR T0 LEWIS INVISIBLE STITCH MACHINE CO., OF ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

SEAM FOR SEWED ARTICLES.

Application filed January 9, 1924. Serial No. 685,174.

This invention relates to new and useful improvements in seams for sewed articles generally, although more partlcularly to a seam for joining the edge portions of the.

outer edges coinciding, placing a tape upon the fore-part adjacent said outer edges, and stitching the. entirety by a single line of through-and-through stitches. An interlinin is then stitched to the tape generallyby a ine of blind stitches, and the facing of the coat is then turned over upon the interlining., Although the fold thus formed is subsequently pressed, there is a tendency during the Wearing of the coat for the edge thus seamed and folded to roll, that is, the edge portion of the facing tends to roll outwardly. To overcome this'objection it has been customary to hand stitch the facing to the interlining, but this hand operation is necessarily slow and consequently costly, the. stitches are spaced irregularly and great care must be exercised in order to avoid any of these hand made stitches from penetrating the fore-part of the coat, or creating puckering in the outer face or fair side of the facing due to the stitches being set too tightly.

' The principal object of my invention is to provide a seam in which the facing and lining are secured together to prevent the rolling of the facing by a line of machine made stitches which are invisible from the outer face of said facing and which avoid any puckering effect on the outer face thereof.

Another object of'this invention is to provide a seam for the purpose set forth which on account of being made by a sewing machine will permit the seam to be formed with greater 5 eed and facility, the machine made stitches Being of uniform length and the depth of penetration being constant.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a seam of the character described in which the machine made stitches are alternately set loose and tight, the loose stitches engaging the facing and the lining, whereas the tight stitches engage the lining only, thus avoiding the puckering effect of the stitches on the outer face of the facing. With the above and other objects in view which will more readily appear as the nature with their outer edges coinciding. The tape of the invention is better understood,-the

same consists in the novel construction, combination and arrangement of parts hereinafter more fully described, illustrated and claimed.

In the drawings which are greatly exaggerated in order to bettervshow the seam structure,

Figure 1 is a lan view showing the seam 1n the process 0 being formed.

Figure 2 is a sectional view taken on theline 2-2 of Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a sectional view taken on the line 3-3 of Figure 1, and

Figure 4 is an end elevation showing the completed seam.

Like reference numerals designate correspondmg parts throughout the several figures of the drawing.

. In carrying out my invention I construct a seam for the edge of a coat which I have indicated as a whole by the reference character A, this coat as usual, comprising a fore-part 5, a facing 6, a tape 7 and an interlinin 8.

I first construct a primary seam for'the edge of the coat by disposing the fore-part 5 and the facing 6 in superimposed relation 7 is placed thereabove and the entirety is oined by aline of through-and-through stitches 9. The purpose of securing the interlining to the primary seam is an incident of manufacture, and therefore the lining and tape may be considered as an entirety, viz., an interlining which is secured to the forepart and facing by the line of stitches 9. The interlining 8 is then joined to the tape 7 by means of a line of blind stitching 10, which I' have diagrammatically shown in Figures 2 and 3 only. v The seam thus formed is then opened out wardly and fed through a blind stitch sewing machine of the type illustrated in my copending application Serial Number 691,- 100 638 filed February 9, 1924, whereby a line B of blind stitches is thus formed to join the facing and interlining in such a manner as to prevent the edge of the seam from rolling during the wearing of the coat, and 105 also to prevent any puckering effect of said stitches on the outer face of the facing.

If the usual needle thread tension were employed, and this tension were loosened,

then all of the stitches would be loosely set and a seam of such looseness would be created which would fail to function to retain the seamfrom rolling, although such loosely set stitches would eliminate a puckered appearance of the outer face or fair s1de of the facing.

The-seam thus produced by the mach ne above referred to is formed through the in- .strumentalities of a needle 11 which oscillates in a plane at an angle to the general line of the seam, the preferable angle beoint 16.- The tight penetrant needle thread oops 14 do not enter the facing 6 but only pass into the interlining 8. All of these needle thread loops are concatinated with,

that is, keyed by, a bobbin thread 17, the

bobbin thread being formed into a series of penetrant loops 18 which concatinate with the tight needle thread loops 14. In other words the stitches thus formed are alter nately loosely and tightly set. I

By reason of the needle thread loops penetrating the facing during every other stitch only, coupled with the loose setting of such stitches, brings about an ideal situation in .that the facing is retained against rolling )during the wearing of the garment and the appearance of dimples or puckering on the outer face or fair side of the facing is prevented.

In forming the seam, the needle '11 which oscillates in a constant path relative to the I horizontal enters the inner face of the facing at the point 15 and emerges from the interlining at the point 16, see Fig. 2, and then withdraws leaving the loose needle thread loop 13 projecting above the interlining. The bobbin thread 17 is of course, passed through this loop in order to key or look the same. The arment is then fed rearwardly a stitch 'lengti distance and the needle then enters the lining, the facing side of the seam being at this time located below the path of the needle oscillation, and forms a resultant tightly set needle thread loop 14 which is keyed or locked by the bobbin thread 17.

Thus itv will be seen that the facing and lining only are connected by a line of blind stitches which include a series of equally spaced penetrant needle thread loops, that certain of the loops engage both the facing andinterlining, and are loosely set, that alternate loops engage the interlining only and are tightly set, that all of said loops are keyed," that the seam thus formed will not roll, and that there is'no puckering on the I outer face or fair side of the facing.

I claim: p

1. In a seam for coats, the combination of a fore-part and a facing of a coat arranged in superimposed relation, the edge portions thereof being inturned and secured by a linev series of equally spaced penetrant keyed needle thread loops entering the inner face of the facing and thence entering and emerging from that face of the lining adjacent the facing.

2. In a seam for coats, the combination of a fore-part and a facing of acoat arranged in superimposed relation, the edge portions therof being inturned and secured by a line of throngh-and-through stitches, an interlining disposed between said fore-part and facing and secured thereto by said line of throughmud-through stitches, and a line of blind stitches connecting only said facing and lining, said blind stitches including a series of equally spaced penetrant keyed needle thread loops some of which enter the inner face of the facing and then enter and emer e from that face of the lining adjacent the acing, others of said penetrant loops only entering and emerging from that face of the lining adjacent the facing.

3. In a seam for coats, the combination of a forepart and a facing of a coat arranged in superimposed relation, the edge portions thereof being inturned and secured. by a line of through-and-through stitches, an interlining disposed between said fore-part and facing and secured thereto by said line of through-and-through stitches, and a line of blind stitches connecting only said facing and lining, said blind stitches including a series of equally spaced penetrant keyed needle thread loops, alternate needle thread loops respectively entering the inner face of the facing and thence entering and emerging from that face of the lining adjacent the facing.

4. In a seam for coats, the combination of a fore-part and a facing of a coat arranged in superimposed relation, the edge portions thereof being inturncd and secured by a line of through-and-through stitches, an interlining disposed between said fore-part and facing and secured thereto by said line of through-and-throrugh stitches. and a line of blind stitch-es connecting only said facing and lining, said blind stitches including a series of equally spaced penetrant needle thread loops entering the inner face of the facing and thence entering and emerging from that face of the lining adjacent the facin and a bobbin thread passing through and eying said penetrant needle thread 100 s.

In a seam for coats, the combination of 5 a fore-part and a facing of a coat arranged in superimposed relation, the edge portions thereof being inturned and secured by a line of through-and-through stitches, an interlining disposed between said fore-part and facing and secured thereto by said line of through-and-through stitches, and a line of blind stitches connecting only said facing and lining, said blind stitches connecting only said facing and lining, said blind stitches including a series of equally spaced penetrant needle thread loops, alternate needle thread loops respectively entering the inner face of the facing and thence entering and emerging from that face of the lining adjacent the facing and entering and emerging from that face of the lining adjacent the facing, and a bobbin thread passing through and keying said penetrant needle thread loops.

6. In a seam for coats, the combination of a fore-part and a facing of a coat arranged in superimposed relation, the edge portions thereof being inturned and secured by a line of through-and-through stitches, an interlining disposed between said fore-part and facing and secured thereto by said line of through-and-through stitches. and a line of blind stitches connecting only said facing and lining, said blind stitches including a series of equally spaced penetrant keyed needle thread loops some of which enterthe inner face of the facing and then enter and emerge from that face of the lining adjacent the facing, and are loosely set, others of 9' said penetrant loops only entering and emerging from that face of the lining adjacent the facing and being tightly set.

7. In a seam for coats, the combination of a fore-part and a facing of a coat arranged 45 in superimposed relation, the edge portions thereof being inturned and secured by a line of through-and-through stitches, an interlining disposed between said fore-part and facing and secured thereto by said line of through-and-through stitches, and a line of blind stitches connecting only said facing and lining, said blind stitches connecting only said facing and lining, said blind stitches including a series of equally spaced penetrant needle thread loops, alternate needle thread loops being respectively loosely and tightly set and respectively entering the inner face of the facing and thence enfacing and secured thereto by said line of through-and-through stitches, and a line of blind stitches connecting only said facing and lining, said blind stitches including a series of equally spaced penetrant keyed needle thread loops entering the inner face of the facing and thence entering and emerging from that face of the lining adjacent the facing, each of saidneedle thread loops extending in a plane at right angles to the general direction of the seam.

9. In a seam, the combination of two body fabrics arrangedin superposed relation, and means for securing said fabrics consisting of a line of blind stitches including a series of equally spaced and anchored penetrant needle thread loops, certain of said loops.

entering the inner face of one only of the body fabrics, and the remaining loops enter ing and emerging from the respective inner faces of both body fabrics.

In testimony whereof I hereunto aflix my signature.

' CHARLES IV. MUELLER. 

